I have been making so many amigurumis lately, so many that I have not had the time to post about them. Right now I have them on my Etsy Shop, both ready made and patterns. However, this post is about the one amigurami that made my want to make my own designs. It is a post that I wrote months ago, but did not post, until now.
“I have been intreseted by these cute amigurumi figurs for som time now, and have given it a try but they did not turn out as good as I hoped. BUT, I have been seeing so many cute and cool crochet Star Wars figurens and could not keep myself from making one for me. Istumbled upon this really sweet pattern by Pilbeam from defectivegeek.com, you can find it here, and I just loved the way it looked. I am a huge Star Wars fan, and I think Padme is a great lead character, so I had to make it.
The pattern was very clear and easy to follow, I made some misstakes so I hade to redo som things, but other than that I thought it was great.
Here is she, a Padmé of my own design
Here is a sweet Padmé in her pretty summer dress 🙂
Knitting Socks is very hard, am not gonna lie to you, I have tried. You will have to learn how to knit in the round, or use these annoying little sock-needles, then learn how to measure so that everything will fit at the end, still you might end up will ladders or some thing that is both too big and too small at the same time. But it does not have to be that hard, there are ways around it, if you really want to make your very own first sock without the risk of failing this time.
This pattern will teach you how to knit socks using straight needles, how to make sure that your sock is the size you like and any beginner could do it.
These socks are made in Mayflower Easy Care yarn, you could use a similar yarn to match the size of needels used. I will be posting patterns of socks made in Drops Alpaca yarn and Järbos Big Verona yarn soon aswell.
What you need:
Yarn (two balls of 50 g each) worsted weight yarn
Needles that fit your yarn (6mm)
Stitch marker, or something similar.
Tip: This sock is knit from the top down. Start by deciding how high you would like your sock to be, you could use a sock you like for reference. Then measure the length of your foot, from heal to toes.
Tip: This pattern below is for socks made for a size 36-38, medium height. To go up in size, 39-41, add 4 more stitches when casting on.
Cast on 36 stitches. Work two knit two purl front and back. work 6 rows.
Knit in stockinette stitch now (the hight of your sock), 30 rows in stockinette stitch. Start with a knit row.
Heel : Now work on the heel. This is worked on the right side: place a marker in the middle of your 36 stitches, to mark half of the sock. Slip first stitch, knit all the way to the marker but leave the last stitch before the marker. Turn your sock around, purl all the way, but not the last two stitches. Turn your work around, knit all but the last two stitches before the marker. Continue like this, skipping one stitch at the time on each side until you have reached the last 5 stitches before the marker.
Turn your work around and purl all the stiches.
Continue in stockinette stitch as long as your foot, 32 rows here.
Now work the toe. The toe is worked just like the heel, but it is worked on the opposite side of the sock. Here, on the right sock, the heel is on the right and the toe will be on the left. Repeat the heel steps, but start when you have reached a purl row. When you have reached the last 5 skipped stitches from the purl side, do not turn the sock around, purl all the way instead until you reach the marker. Remove the marker, measure double length of the sock in yarn, cut the yarn and thread it on a yarn needle.
Place the knitting needles side by side, see picture.Now, drive the sewing yarn needle back and forth between the stitches in the front, make sure that you alternate between the sides. When you have gone through the sitch with the yarn needle, you can then remove it from the knitting needles.
Once you have cleared the knitting needles from stitches, you can sew the sock. use the edges to sew, go back and forward evenly for a clean and seamless look.
Tip:Do use safety needles or something similar to help you sew evenly. Do not pull on the yarn to hard, you want the tension to be even.
Now, Make the left sock just like you made thes right one, just remember that the left sock will have the heel on the left side and toe of the right. To achieve that with the same number of rows, start with a purl row instead of a knit row after the 6 rows of “two knit two purl”. OR, if you dont mind the seam being on the same side of each sock, then just follow the exact pattern, they will look great no matter what.
Tip: If you are using variegated yarn, like it did, and would like the socks to like alike. Then, pull on the yarn until you reach the same color combo that you had at the start of the first sock. Just make sure you have enough yarn.
I hope you enjoyed this pattern, if you have any questions then don’t be shy, just ask away. 🙂
A couple months ago I wanted to start knitting a sweater for my boyfriend, the weather was then still cold and the timing felt right. But then summer came, and went by and now, in the middle of the fall season, I have decided to finally finish I started and have it done before christmas. YAY.
The pattern is a free one that I found on Drops designs website, the best place to find nice and clear patterns, modern design and to top it all, every pattern on there is free. 🙂 (not an ad or a sponsored post, I just love Drops design) This pattern in perticular is made using karisma yarn, a 100 % wool blend that I then had not tried yet.
Since I stated working on this sweater, I have gone back and forth on how the graph and pattern should look like when it came to the stars on the front. My boyfriend is not a big fan of multicoloured and flashy designs, so I have been making some changes to the graph and adding some of my own twists.
There is not that much left now, am working the front part of the sweater, then I’ll work the back, arms and assemble. Ok, I have a lot to do, but I think I am more than half way done.
So I have been working very much lately and have had many ongoing projects at the same time, so the blog has been put on hold. But yesterday I wanted to test something new, and the results are so pretty I felt I had to post them on here.
Since I have been knitting and crocheting so much the last few months, my yarn stash is growing and changing all the time. Surrounded by pretty colours and soft yarn, I still felt that I wanted to make something unique and new. So, I tested dyeing my own yarn!!
I started with some white acrylic yarn that I had, using food dye and any tools I had at home I created these two beauties.
There was still so much dye left, so I also tested dyeing some white fluffy yarn I had. Look how pretty 🙂
Later on I wanted to dye the real thing, I use wool almost always, and if it wanted something that could be useful then I had to dye wool. What I had at home that I could spare ( friday night) was a gray 100% wool 50 g, which has some kind of a mixed colours effect. Very beautiful, gray white and black in a very gentle mix. I extracted a very nice green colour from some green cardamom I had at home and a red-brown colour from black beans. These colors, with some blue food coloring, citric acid and some effort became these three 🙂
The last, and dare I say best skein the I dyed yesterday almost in the middle of the night, was this pretty cream merino wool I had.
For this, I used the green from the cardamom, pink food coloring and water. Am so happy with how they all tured out, I should have done thing a long tim ago. Now I still unsure about what to do with them, since I only have so little of each colour way, but looking at them will have to do until I know.
Note: always use gloves when mixing dye or working with the yarn, otherwise you will end up with stained red hands ( said from experience 🙂 )
Note: These picture are taken by me, and they have not been altered and no filter has been used
The last couple of weeks I have been working on a number of knitted and crochet projects, that I will share soon, but this one is my favorite so far. I ordered this cute metal frame from ebay some weeks ago, and when it arrived, I just had to stop everything and work on it. This simple coin purse is crochet using the sunburst pattern, front and back, these are then joined using simple crochet stitches to create the sides of the purse, it is very quick and easy. I hade a lot of fun working on it, I hope you enjoy this pattern and post.
The basic idea is that you crochet a purse that matches the frame, both the length and the depth. The Sunburst square will be made to match the length of the frame (from side to side). One of the squares will then be worked into a purse by simple crocheting along the three sides, then the second square will be crochet in to close the purse.
What you need:
Yarn, any yarn you like
Hook that matches your yarn
(Optional) thinner yarn to decorate the sides
Needles, both yarn and large sewing needles
( Optional) Fabric
How to do it:
Start by working one sunburst square that is big enough to match the length of the frame (see below for info on how to make the sunburst square). Fasten off and wave in the ends of the yarn.
Make a second square, but do not fasten off, work around the square’s three sides with simple crochet stitches to create the purse. When you reach the edge, chain one, turn the work around and simple crochet back. Do not increase or decrease the number of stitches. Work until the length of the simple crochet part match the depth of the frame when it is opened. (See pictures above).
When the size of the simple crochet part of the purse matches the depth of the frame (when open), fasten the first square to the purse. You could do so by slip stiches around or by sewing using the yarn needel.
Simple crochet around the edge of the purse to give it a clean look, if it is uneven.
(Optional) If you would like the purse to have some lining on the inside, measure the bottom and the sides of the purse. Cut any fabric you like, to fit, remember to cut more that you need. Sew the parts together (right side of the fabric on the inside of the purse) place the fabric purse inside the crochet purse, sew together around the edge.
Place the frame over the opening of the purse, adjust to place it correctly, and sew in the purse to the frame.
Finish the purse by sewing with a nice thin yarn, or the same yarn you used.
Slip stitch, chain five, joining with a slip stitch in the first chain.
Chain three (double crochet), double crochet around the ring 15 times. Join with slip stitch in the last chain of the chain three at the start.
Chain one, puff stitch. repeat around a total of 16 times. End round by joining with a slip stitch into the first puff stitch.
Chain two, Cluster stitch. Repeat around. End with chain two then a slip stitch into first cluster stitch.
Chain four (treble crochet), two treble crochet in the same space. chain three, three treble crochet in the same space. *three double crochet in the next space. Three half double crochet in the next space. Three double crochet in the next space. Now we will have a corner: three treble crochet followed by chain three, then three more treble crochet.* Repeat *-* twice.
When you have reached the last side of your work. Right after the corner, three double crochet in the next space. Three half double crochet in the next space. Three double crochet in the next space. Work three treble crochet in the same space as the one from the start of the round ( that is a corner) chain three, slip stitch into the chain four from the start of this round.
Now this is how you make a sunburst square, you can make it bigger by working in the same way around, until you are happy with the size. Now, go back to the “How to do it”-part to complete this purse. 🙂